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Self-Portrait

For those looking for ultra-contemporary kind of femininity, an up and coming London-based label Self-Portrait is not to be missed. Paying paramount attention to details, Han Chong, the person behind the brand, still manages to create edgy designs with prices that do not intimidate. Taking the fashion world by storm Self-Portrait becomes a must-have in every wardrobe. MORE is LOVE caught up with the designer, who opens up about his education, fashion and brand identity.

MORE is LOVE: When did you realize you want to be a fashion designer?

Han: I knew when I was young, that I was creative, I didn’t necessarily always know I wanted to be a designer, but I always loved the idea of the creativity of it all. I grew up in the countryside and there was not such a thing like fashion in my everyday life, so I am not really sure where I get it from.

MORE is LOVE: What is the most memorable thing you can recall from your student years?

Han: Studying at St Martins was such a big inspiration for me and still has a huge impact on what I do. It did come as quite a surprise that it was so competitive there. However, this competitive situation actually prepares you well for how the industry functions in real life later on. I learnt a lot, not just about the visuals but regarding technique too and overall it gave me a good understanding of the whole design process. It’s without a doubt, one of the best schools in Europe and I'm grateful for my time there.

MORE is LOVE: Can you recall any significant fashion related memories from your childhood?

Han: I grew up in Penang in an environment far away from the world of fashion. My first college tutor in Penang, Jing Ooi, who graduated from Central Saint Martins, totally opened up my eyes about fashion design. He is also the one, who inspired me to move to London and continue my study here more than 10 years ago.

MORE is LOVE: How do you manage to make an affordable but still high quality fashion?

Han: You just need to work a bit harder on finding alternative solutions, like re-thinking the manufacturing process, and then of course, being less greedy when you calculate your profit margins. We put a lot of effort into finding the best sewers and in researching for the right fabric sources and suppliers - we will even start to have our own textiles made for the next collections - all this in order to make sure we get the best qualities available and that the prices are still workable.

Our designs are rather feminine, so you also need to be proud of your sex or even willing to play with your androgynous side.

MORE is LOVE: What makes your brand stand out? What is your concept?

Han: It’s really important for me to create something that can make women feel extraordinary but doesn't break their bank balance. Beauty shouldn't only be an option for the privileged few, and it is possible to achieve a balance.

MORE is LOVE: Who is Self-Portrait girl?

HAN: Those women who dare to stand out rather than just blend in. Our designs are rather feminine so you also need to be proud of your sex or even willing to play with your androgynous side.

MORE is LOVE: Who would you like to see wearing Self-Portrait?

Han: There is no one person in particular, I am always honored when someone does wear it though.

MORE is LOVE:Have you ever incorporated Malaysian themes in your collections?

Han: I don’t deliberately incorporate this, but Malaysian culture and heritage is a part of me, so maybe subconsciously this always influences what I do and is present within the collections.

MORE is LOVE: Do you have any favourite colours or fabrics to work with?

Han: I love to play around with texture and mixing fabrics but each collection depends on the mood, there is always a different direction to experiment with and to take it to.

MORE is LOVE: What music is playing in your studio?

Han: The band Money, they keep the studio calm.

MORE is LOVE: What is the most challenging thing when running a brand?

Han: To have to keep pushing yourself to move the brand forward and to develop new ideas that aren’t just about the clothes. You shouldn’t rest on your laurels but keep evolving.

MORE is LOVE: Tell us about your design process...

Han: When I’m designing, I always think about the sculptural qualities of the design. But the aesthetics of the design also depend on its utilitarian purpose; in what context it will be worn and experienced. I try to think about what women want and need their wardrobe to be.

MORE is LOVE: Where do you seek your inspiration?

Han: I get my inspiration from many sources – it can be a detail from a movie, or from seeing someone in the street mixing styles in a radical way, from going to art exhibitions or by stuff that I read. Your visual memory then makes all these impressions into new patterns and, suddenly, ideas start to pop up.

MORE is LOVE: Where do you see your brand in 10 years?

Han: 10 years too far, one thing at a time.

MORE is LOVE: What does success mean to you?

Han: Success means you will have more resources available to grow the brand and to keep developing it.

Don’t compromise, because the only thing you will be perfect at, is being you!

MORE is LOVE: Who is your fashion icon?

Han: There are many icons, not just one. I find many people and many things inspiring depending on the mood and what collection I’m working on.

MORE is LOVE: Do you have ny new collaboration in mind?

Han: I have just done a collaboration with Artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset on a limited edition based collection. Nothing else planned just yet!

MORE is LOVE: What advice would you give to fashion students today?

Han: Be true to yourself and your own ideas. Don’t compromise, because the only thing you will be perfect at, is being you! But you also need to be realistic and not too much of dreamer.

LOVE is... "Happiness"

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