with Penelope Chilvers
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Penelope Chilvers, an artist turned footwear designer, came a long way since she had an idea to bring the Spanish riding boot to England 9 years ago. Now sold all over the world, including a number of its own boutiques, Penelope Chilvers is known for its classic styles with a quirky feel. She combines traditional craftsmanship with fashion led designs, which makes her footwear collection timeless. MORE is LOVE finds out the fascinating story of the artist in the new issue of the TALK. |
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MORE is LOVE: Tell us about your experience as a painter... Penelope: I studied fine arts in London. I was tutored by colourists like the late Ken Kiff and Paula Rego and colour is still a passion of mine when designing footwear. Then I studied for an MA at Compultense University in Madrid. Mine was a classical approach to drawing with many hours spent in the life-drawing studio. MORE is LOVE: Where did your passion for shoes come from? Penelope: Good design marries performance and style... Footwear needs to do its thing – it needs to be purposeful. |
MORE is LOVE: Are you still drawing apart from designing shoes? Penelope: I use my visual memory to jot down ideas but the iPhone has replaced that for most things. For new designs it's essential to draw. When a new pattern needs to be cut on a new last, the easiest way to see if it will work is to sketch it up. MORE is LOVE: How do you manage to make incorporate traditional approach into modern design? Penelope: I love the traditional disciplines of shoe making and I find the technical side fascinating. I use Goodyear welted soles that are associated with traditional and custom made men’s footwear. |
Good design marries performance and style... Footwear needs to do its thing – it needs to be purposeful.
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Penelope: Purposeful footwear for experience and adventure. MORE is LOVE: How did your work evolve over past years? Penelope: I have identified the importance of phased drops within seasons for retail and the importance of transitional/trans-seasonal styles for the business. MORE is LOVE: What attracts you most in Spain in terms of creating footwear? Penelope: Family run factories with tradition and experience. I love their equestrian history. Texan horsemanship derives from Spanish horsemen. I am inspired by the leatherwork and leather tooling. The Spanish make the best natural saddle leathers. |
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MORE is LOVE: What are your favorite colors and fabrics to work with? Penelope: Natural wools, wool felts, pony skin (cowhide) and tooled leathers. Naturals and neons. MORE is LOVE: Who would you like to wear your shoes? Penelope: Artists from all walk of life: Alexa Chung (Supermodel), Ralph Bousfield (Top African Safari Guide/an adventurer), Cate Blanchett (Actress), Rihanna (Singer). MORE is LOVE: How do you express yourself through your designs? What is the main massage? Penelope: My designs are there to empower women and to inspire freedom. The designs have attitude and wearability. MORE is LOVE: What inspires you and how do you embody your ideas into your designs? |
MORE is LOVE: What is the most important thing in the working process? Tell us about your team... Penelope: To work closely with the factories and trust in their experience. Efficient sampling close to home in Europe means a fast turnaround and more environmentally friendly transportation. MORE is LOVE: When did you realize that your brand gained success? What does success mean to you? Penelope: When we opened stores. To have success in retail and meet the very customers who are followers of the brand and consider their Penelope Chilvers shoes to be ‘old favourites’. MORE is LOVE: What fascinates you now? Penelope: Conservation with regards to a growing population versus the countryside, knowledge of eco systems, documenting dying crafts, cork products and tooled leather. |
My designs are there to empower women and to inspire freedom.
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MORE is LOVE: Who would you want to work with? Are you interested in collaborations? Penelope: I would like to collaborate with Pendleton. They are experts in their field so we can swap knowledge and create excellent product together. MORE is LOVE: Your most desired dream... Penelope: Take me to Mexico or Africa. To have a design base in a cottage in the English countryside or the hills of Spain. MORE is LOVE: The best memory in Penepole Chilvers shoes? Penelope: Cate Blanchett visiting my studio and wondering where on earth she was coming to. She and her husband stayed all afternoon… MORE is LOVE: What advice would you give to young shoe designers? Penelope: Carefully consider your choice of leathers and materials as these can really make or break a design. |
LOVE is... "A hot bath after a long walk."
